![]() Before I found the USG brand, I used to dread the process of repairing the walls in BHH. When I discovered this product, it completely changed my outlook on minor plaster repair. It dries without cracking even when I use a significant amount in the deep holes.It smooths on easily with a putty knife or a finger.The consistency is uniform every time I open the container, even when I am down to the last inch or so in the bucket.I prefer UGL spackle over other brands because: These little latex covers are also available at your local pharmacy.) (Tip: I use finger cots (affiliate link) to protect my finger when I apply spackle this way. The lite version does work well for small holes as long as I am not using a putty knife. I find that my finger is the most effective tool available for filling small holes and divots. The lite version often crumbles and falls out which is frustrating. It sticks to the knife well and spreads smoothly and evenly. I prefer the regular 222 over the lite when I need to apply it with a putty knife. However, that’s not entirely true since I always seek out this brand. During stories, I said that I did not have a favorite spackle. UGL brand spackling paste, readily available at big box stores, comes in both a lite and traditional formula. We learned our lesson, and these three are now our go-to choices for minor repairs to plaster, UGL Spackling Paste Over the years, we have used plenty of products that made our lives harder. Today, I am discussing each product in-depth. Last weekend, on IG stories, I talked a little bit about them. In short, I vote to keep the plaster and don't worry about wall insulation in a mild climate.Since we are diving right into two bathroom renovations, the main bathroom, and the guest bath, I wanted to highlight three of my favorite products for minor plaster repair. (very comfortable for me,) the radiators heat up in the morning and stay cold the rest of the day as long as the outside temps are +0. With the thermostat set at 65 during the day and going to 55 at 9 p.m. On the other hand, it takes at least 24 hours for the house to lose its heat/cold - change interior air temp - to match the outside temp, even with some windows open. The outside walls are cold to the touch in the winter and cool the rest of the time. So I have thick plaster over wood lath interior walls and thick stucco outer walls in a 1913 house in a very cold climate (Central Minnesota, planting zone 3.) Whatever insulation was ever in the walls is most likely packed down in the bottom of the stud bays. when the pink stuff isn't fluffy, the trapped air is pushed out and insulation value lost. (Just compare the cost of new drywall to new plaster if nothing else.)Īt a time when my ex-husband was teaching college classes in thermo-dynamics and consulting for a contractor who built super-insulated, passive solar houses that could function without furnaces in cold climates (by way of expert references,) what I retained from some conversations was that the best insulation is dead air. I offer the thought/question for discussion as much as expert responses but with a strong bias toward leaving the plaster intact because drywall is inferior. This is in response to the suggestion of taking the plaster walls out in order to insulate. ![]() My concern on taking the plaster out is that the wood/plaster combo may be providing good sound insulation right now, but that might not be the case.? (The three walls in question are two exterior walls and an interior wall between the kitchen and our bedroom.) We are adding some electrical, but no new plumbing and 2/3 of the wiring to be added will be in the wall that's getting taken down to the studs anyway (which leaves one new outlet each in each of the remaining three walls). We do have cracking as the house settles, but it's an old house and that seems par for the course-doesn't bother us too much. Somewhat astoundingly we are clear for both asbestos and lead paint in these walls so there is no real reason to remove them or leave them on that front.Īre there compelling arguments for getting rid of the plaster? Drywall guy says we will have problems with plaster cracking and should replace it all so that it matches-but then again, he's the drywall guy. ![]() The others are in good condition and would only need minor patching. One of the four walls must come down to the studs (removing a chimney) and will then be drywalled. Our house is circa 1915 and these are plaster over wood lathe with a smooth finish. We're remodeling our kitchen, and need to decide whether to go down to the studs or preserve the existing plaster and lathe walls.
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